Hampta Pass

I find it hard to believe that most people never mention the drive from Manali to Jobra, the base camp of the trek. It is one of the nicest mountain drives I’ve done. I remember being glued to the window when we took the drive (tip: sit on the left). The dirt track just zips up the mountain face in a dizzying series of hairpin bends.

I loved how in an hour the forests changed, from apple orchards to deodar forests to oaks. From the heart of Manali, it became cooler and then really cold! I could never imagine such a road existed right behind Manali. I have passed Manali a hundred times and never spotted it!

It is a small forest, but it is a rare one on the Hampta Pass trek. It comes right on the first day of the trek — it mesmerised me! For the first time, I saw oaks.

 I like pass crossings, they are usually very exciting. But the Hampta Pass crossing was a different adventure. Everything was very dramatic. On the pass day, it was almost like walking through a gorge. It is a very narrow valley  — stark brown walls on either side, deep white snow below us. Ice columns trickled down on some caves on either side. Our voices almost echoed.

You get to the pass by climbing three ledges one after the other. What sticks with me is the sense of adventure that you get when you climb these ledges leading to the pass.

When I got to the pass, I thought I would see the other side immediately. Nothing like that.

The pass was a long wide passage veering to the left. It went on for some time and then suddenly, it just dropped off in an opening high up in the mountains — almost hanging out of the air. I am no mountaineer, but that day I felt like I was on an expedition! I guess every trekker on the Hampta trek feels like that.

The first view of Lahaul stunned me. This has to be one of the big highlights of doing this trek. From the pass, many thousand feet below, to my left and right, stretched the entire Shea Goru valley, my first sight of Lahaul. Standing on top of a stark snow pass, this was a contrast I didn’t imagine.

Behind us was the Kullu valley with its dense trees, grasslands, tall cliffs and flowers. And in front was the desert-like Lahaul with its grassy boulder ridden valley floor. It was not chocolate barren like Ladakh, but it was a different greenish desert. Just for this contrast, it is worth doing this trek.      

As much as I loved climbing the Hampta Pass, I loved getting down on the Lahaul side more. The landscape changed so much in those 6 hours!

First, it was the tall snow-capped mountains on either side, then the slides and plunges down a moraine-filled gully. Finally, they rush down to the grassy ledge overlooking the Chandrabhaga river. I sat there for a long time just taking in the experience. It was exhilarating!